How to tell if Leather is Good Quality: 12 Things to Look For

Thinking of buying a leather product?  There is a vast range of products on the market which are advertised as ‘leather’, but not all ‘leather’ is of the same quality. This is a guide to help you determine the quality of the leather that you are considering buying.

1. Look at the natural grain

Natural leather grain can look different depending on the type of leather and the animal it comes from. Generally, natural leather grain has a slightly textured appearance with variations in color and texture. The grain may have imperfections, such as small scars, wrinkles, or pores, which give the leather its unique and natural appearance. The grain pattern may appear random or have a more structured pattern, depending on how the leather is treated and finished. Overall, natural leather grain is often considered beautiful and adds to the character and quality of the leather.

2. Look for natural marks and imperfections

Natural leather is derived from animal hides, which have inherent marks and imperfections such as scars, stretch marks, and insect bites. These marks are a natural part of the animal's life and are unavoidable in the leather-making process.

These imperfections are generally considered to add character and uniqueness to each piece of leather, rather than being a problem. In fact, many people appreciate the natural look and feel of leather with its imperfections as it adds to the overall aesthetic appeal. However, if you prefer a more uniform and pristine look, you can opt for corrected-grain leather which has been buffed and sanded to remove any marks or imperfections.

3. Feel the leather

Quality leather feels smooth, supple, and luxurious to the touch. It is usually soft and pliable, with a slight give when pressed. The surface should have a consistent texture and feel durable as opposed to flimsy and fragile.

4. Smell the leather

Real leather should have a distinct, rich smell that is often described as earthy, musky, and slightly sweet. It should not have a chemical or artificial smell. The smell of real leather can also vary depending on the type of leather and the tanning process used.

5. Check the thickness and weight

Is thicker leather always better quality? Not necessarily. While thicker leather can often be more durable and long-lasting, it is not always an indicator of better quality. The quality of leather is determined by various factors, including the type of animal hide it is made from, the tanning process used, and the overall craftsmanship of the leather product. Thicker leather may be more suitable for certain applications, such as heavy-duty work boots or motorcycle jackets, but for other uses, such as dress shoes or handbags, a thinner, more supple leather may be preferred. Ultimately, the quality of leather is subjective and depends on the intended use and personal preferences of the consumer.

6. Bend and flex the leather

When quality leather is bent and flexed, it should remain supple and maintain its shape without cracking or creasing excessively. High-quality leather is known for its natural flexibility and ability to bounce back to its original form after being stretched or folded. Over time, as leather is bent and flexed, it will develop a natural patina and characteristic wear patterns that add to its beauty and uniqueness. If the leather is cared for properly with regular conditioning and cleaning, it should continue to age gracefully and develop a rich, luxurious appearance.

7. Examine the cut edges

The raw edges of leather can reveal a lot about its quality. High-quality leather will have clean, smooth edges that are consistent in thickness and free from fraying or roughness. On the other hand, lower-quality leather may have uneven or jagged edges, indicating that the leather was not properly processed or may be made from lower-grade materials. Additionally, examining the raw edges can also give insight into the craftsmanship and attention to detail that went into creating the leather product.

8. Check the stitching

The stitching on a leather product can tell you a lot about its quality. Here are a few things to look out for:

Consistency: High-quality leather products will have consistent stitching in terms of spacing, tension, and pattern. Uneven stitches or loose threads may indicate a lower quality product.

Stitch Type: The type of stitching used can also indicate quality. Look for products that use strong and durable stitching techniques such as saddle stitching or machine lockstitching.

Stitch Density: The density of the stitching can also be a sign of quality. A higher stitch density generally indicates a more durable and long-lasting product.

Reinforcement: Quality leather products will often have reinforced stitching at stress points or areas that are prone to wear and tear. This extra reinforcement can help prevent stitching from coming undone over time.

Overall, paying attention to the stitching on a leather product can help you assess its overall quality and durability. High-quality stitching is often a sign of a well-crafted and long-lasting product.

9. Inspect the hardware

The hardware on a leather product is important for both functionality and aesthetics. High-quality hardware, such as buckles, zippers, and studs, can enhance the overall look and durability of the product. It can also contribute to the overall performance and usability of the item. Low-quality hardware can compromise the integrity of the product and lead to issues such as breakage and malfunction. Therefore, it is important to consider the quality of the hardware when purchasing a leather product.

10. Understand the leather description

Full grain leather refers to leather that has not been buffed or sanded to remove any imperfections or blemishes on the surface. This type of leather is considered to be the highest quality as it retains the natural grain of the hide, making it durable and long-lasting. Full grain leather is also known for developing a unique patina over time, adding to its character and beauty.

Top grain leather refers to the type of leather that comes from the top layer of the animal hide. It is considered to be of higher quality than other types of leather, such as split grain or bonded leather. Top grain leather is more durable, resistant to wear and tear, and retains the natural grain and markings of the animal hide. It is often used in high-end leather products such as furniture, handbags, and shoes.

The term "genuine leather" refers to leather that is made from the actual hide of an animal, rather than being a synthetic material. It is considered to be of higher quality and durability than synthetic alternatives, as it is a natural material that retains its strength and flexibility over time.

Corrected grain leather refers to leather that has been sanded, buffed, or embossed to remove imperfections on the surface of the hide. This process helps to create a uniform appearance and texture on the leather, making it more visually appealing and consistent in quality. Corrected grain leather is typically lower in cost compared to full grain leather, but may not be as durable or have the same natural characteristics.

Split leather refers to leather that has been split or separated into two layers, with the top layer being used for higher quality products and the lower, fibrous layer known as split leather. Split leather is typically suede-like in texture and less durable than top grain leather. It is often used in the production of items like suede clothing, bags, and shoes.

Bonded leather is a material made from scraps of real leather that are combined with synthetic materials like polyurethane to create a more affordable alternative to genuine leather. The scraps are bonded together with adhesives and then coated with a layer of polyurethane to give it a more uniform appearance. Bonded leather is not as durable or long-lasting as genuine leather, but it is often used in furniture, accessories, and other products as a more budget-friendly option.

The term "faux/pu leather" refers to a type of synthetic leather made from polyurethane (PU). It is designed to look and feel like real leather, but is manufactured using artificial materials. Faux/pu leather is a more affordable and vegan alternative to genuine leather.

Ultimately, the best type of leather for you will depend on your personal preferences, budget, and intended use.

11. Consider how leather will age

Good quality leather will develop a patina over time with use, becoming softer and more supple. It may show natural creases and wrinkles, but high quality leather should not crack or peel if properly cared for. Regular conditioning and moisturizing can help maintain the leather's integrity and prevent it from drying out and cracking. Additionally, avoiding exposure to extreme temperatures, sunlight, and moisture can help prolong the lifespan of the leather.

12. Look at the whole product - not just the leather

Check the smell: High-quality leather should have a natural, rich, and pleasant smell. If the product has a chemical or plastic-like odor, it is likely to be made from low-quality or faux leather.

Examine the texture: Good quality leather should feel smooth, soft, and supple to the touch. Inferior leather may feel rough, stiff, or plastic-like.

Look for imperfections: Inspect the surface of the leather for any visible imperfections such as scratches, scars, or discolorations. Some minor imperfections are normal and can add character to the product, but excessive flaws may indicate low-quality leather.

Check the stitching: Examine the stitching on the product. The stitches should be tight, even, and secure. Loose or uneven stitching can indicate poor craftsmanship and lower quality leather.

Assess the weight: High-quality leather tends to be heavier and more substantial than low-quality leather. Lighter weight leather may be thinner and less durable.

Bend and twist the leather: Quality leather should be able to bend and flex easily without cracking or creasing excessively. If the leather stiffens or cracks under pressure, it may be of lower quality.

Consider the price: While price should not be the sole determinant of quality, genuine leather products are typically more expensive than faux leather or synthetic alternatives. If the price seems too good to be true, it may be an indication of lower quality leather.

By following these guidelines, you can make a more informed decision when purchasing leather products and ensure that you are getting a good quality product that will last for years to come.

Golden rule: Don't judge leather by price, smell or appearance alone. The best approach is to combine clear material labelling with careful inspection and reliable seller information. No single visual or touch test can conclusively prove that a product is leather.

Richard Sheppard

Written by

Richard Sheppard , Leathercraft Consultant & Researcher

Richard Sheppard has spent more than a decade researching and writing about leather, craftsmanship, materials, and product quality. Through his work with MAHI Leather, he contributes educational content and industry research that helps readers better understand the materials, construction methods, and care practices behind high-quality leather goods. His articles draw on industry research, practical experience, and a passion for helping consumers better understand what makes exceptional leather products.

View Richard on LinkedIn

Leave a comment

All comments are moderated before being published

Excellent Quality

Buying online is always a risk but this apron is fantastic. It came in a timely manor and quality is great!

Meg W.- The Classic Apron - Verified Buyer