How to Spot Fake Leather Verses Real Leather

It would seem reasonable to assume that any product labelled ‘leather’ is made from the same material as any other product labelled ‘leather’. Reasonable but wrong. If you are looking to purchase a leather product, you need to be aware that there is a wide range of products which can be termed leather, but they are not all of the same quality.

Deciding whether a product is made from quality leather is not always straightforward. Modern faux leathers can closely imitate real leather, while coatings, embossing and different finishing techniques can make real leather behave differently from what a consumer would expect. It is important to understand that no single test of leather is completely reliable. What follows is a guide intended to help you determine if the product you are buying is quality leather.

Basic terminology

1. Real leather: Real leather is made from animal hide, typically cowhide, sheepskin or goatskin. It includes different types and grades of leather, from full-grain and top-grain to split leather. The quality, appearance and durability depend on the hide, tanning process, finishing and construction.

2. Genuine leather: Genuine leather is real animal leather, but the term does not guarantee a particular quality or grade. Although it is frequently used to market lower-cost leather products, it does not automatically mean that the leather is inferior. Unlike terms such as full-grain or split leather, 'genuine leather' does not tell you which layer of the hide was used or how the leather was finished. Look for more specific information when assessing quality.

3. Faux leather: Faux leather is a man-made material designed to look and feel like real leather. It is typically made from synthetic materials such as plastic or PVC. 

4. PU leather: PU leather, or polyurethane leather, is a type of synthetic leather made from a split leather backing coated with a layer of polyurethane. 

5. Synthetic leather: Synthetic leather is any material that is made to look like real leather but is not derived from animal hides. This can include materials such as PVC, polyurethane, and polyester.

6. Vegan leather: Vegan leather is similar to faux leather in that it is promoted as an alternative to real leather.  Vegan leather is typically made from plant-based materials such as cork, pineapple fibers, or apple peels.

7. Bonded leather: Bonded leather is a composite material made from scraps of real leather that are bonded together with adhesive. While it may contain some actual leather, bonded leather is generally considered to be of lower quality than genuine leather.

This is not an exhaustive list and product descriptions can sometimes be ambiguous or confusing.

8 Ways to Tell Real Leather from Fake Leather

1. Examine the grain and surface

Natural grain leather has a distinct and authentic appearance, with visible pores and wrinkles that give it a unique texture. It often has markings and imperfections on the surface that add to its character and beauty. The grains in natural leather tend to be more irregular and varied, making each piece of leather truly one-of-a-kind.

In contrast, synthetic surfaces are typically uniform in texture and appearance. They lack the natural imperfections and variations found in real leather, making them look more artificial and generic. Synthetic surfaces may also feel smoother and less textured than natural grain leather.

Overall, natural grain leather has a rich and luxurious look that is hard to replicate with synthetic materials. Its authentic feel and unique characteristics set it apart from synthetic surfaces, making it a popular choice for high-quality leather goods.

2. Look at the cut edges.

The appearance of the cut edges of real hide, faux leather, and bonded leather can be different in terms of texture, finish, and overall quality.

Real Leather: The cut edges of real hide leather have a natural and organic look with visible and irregular fibers. Depending on the type of leather and finish, the edges may have a smooth or rough appearance.

Faux Leather: The cut edges of faux leather typically have a more uniform and consistent appearance compared to real hide leather. They may have a smooth and polished finish, with no visible fibers or irregularities. 

Bonded Leather: The cut edges of bonded leather can vary depending on the quality of the material. In some cases, bonded leather edges may resemble real hide leather, with visible fibers and a natural appearance. In other cases, bonded leather edges may have a more uniform and synthetic look, similar to faux leather. Bonded leather edges may be prone to peeling or flaking due to the bonding process used to create the material.

Overall, real leather typically has the most natural and authentic appearance on the cut edges, while faux leather and bonded leather may have a more uniform and polished look. The quality and durability of the cut edges can also vary depending on the type of leather and manufacturing process used.

3. Check the back of the material.

The reverse side of real leather typically looks rougher and less refined compared to the front side. It may appear more suede-like in texture with a matte finish. The touch of the reverse side will feel softer and more supple compared to the front side, which is usually smoother and shinier.

4. Feel the material

Real leather, typically, has a softer and more supple feel to the touch compared to synthetic leather. It has a natural texture and flexibility that can vary depending on the type of animal hide it is made from. Real leather also tends to feel warmer to the touch compared to synthetic leather.

On the other hand, synthetic leather can feel smoother and more uniform in texture. It may also feel slightly cooler to the touch compared to real leather. Synthetic leather often has a more artificial surface feel and can lack the natural variations and imperfections that are characteristic of real leather.

5. Bend and flex it

When you bend real leather, it will typically crease and fold in a natural, supple way. Real leather has a certain flexibility and softness that allows it to bend without cracking or breaking. It will also develop a patina over time, enhancing its unique look and feel.

On the other hand, faux leather is usually made from synthetic materials such as plastic or polyurethane. When you bend faux leather, it may crease and fold, but it lacks the natural flexibility and softness of real leather. Faux leather is also less durable and tends to show wear and tear more quickly than real leather. Over time it may also crack or peel with repeated bending. 

6. Smell the leather

Real leather does have a distinctive smell, often described as a rich, earthy, and slightly sweet scent. This smell comes from the natural fibers and oils in the leather. 

Synthetic leather, on the other hand, typically does not have a strong smell like real leather. It may have a faint chemical or plastic-like scent.

7. Try the water test -carefully

The popular water drop test for leather involves placing a small drop of water on the surface of the leather. If the water is quickly absorbed and causes the leather to darken or change color, it indicates that the leather is not well-protected or is of lower quality. However, if the water sits on the surface and beads up without being absorbed, it indicates that the leather has been properly treated and is of higher quality.

8. Read the label and product description

One of the most reliable ways to establish whether a product is made from real leather is to check the manufacturer's material specifications.

Look for clear descriptions of the material used, rather than relying on broad terms such as 'premium' or 'luxury'.

Descriptions such as full-grain leather, top-grain leather, split leather, polyurethane (PU) or PVC provide more useful information about the material's composition.

Be particularly careful with products described simply as 'genuine leather'. Although this confirms the use of real leather when the label is accurate, it does not establish the grade, quality or durability of the material.

If the product description is unclear, ask the retailer whether the material is animal leather, synthetic leather or a composite, and whether it has a coating or backing.

A reputable retailer should be able to explain what materials are used in its products.

Practical tests to identify real leather